Among all liquors, absinthe, a high-proof anised-flavored spirit known for its green hue, has a special mystique for its alleged mind-altering properities, its association with the art and literature of the 19th century, and a nearly century-long ban in many countries in Europe and America. However, one unscrupulous enthusiast took advantage of its cult following to swindle collectors out of thousands of dollars.
Last spring, in a small bar in Seattle, I was regaled by the story of how absinthe came to be banned. A Swiss farmer drank quite a lot of absinthe, murdered his wife and child, and died in jail several weeks later, and his lawyer was happy to blame it all on the corrupting influence of absinthe. Of course the several gallons of other kinds of alcohol he consumed that day probably had more to do with it.
Rail recounts this story in this book, alongside plenty more – it is just the launching point at which production of absinthe went underground, and the fascination with pre-ban absinthe would eventually kick off. I was fascinated by the sections in which Rail interviewed producers of absinthe, learning about their myriad approaches to the drink and why they enjoyed making it. And while I certainly don’t have so discerning palate as Rail, I liked vicariously tasting new and old blends of absinthe through him.
However, the main focus of the book, the so-called absinthe forger, left me rather cold. Rail is persistent in his investigation, speaking to many who were drawn into the deception, but in the end there’s no great mystery about the how or why, certainly not enough to sustain an entire book. The search for the forger and his victims might have worked better as just a a magazine article.
Disclaimer: I received an ARC of this book from NetGalley. This is my honest and voluntary review.